Then thread it through the ring (of which more later) and forward to the port side V-cleat, terminating it in a figure of eight knot. Attach the 3mm line to the second lacing eye, thread it forward through the first lacing eye, around the front of the 4mm line (which is across and just forward of the first lacing eye), back aft through the first lacing eye and then back to the cheek block, exiting it to port.Screw the V-cleat to the port side of the tiller, close to the first lacing eye.Screw the cheek block to the underside of the tiller just aft of that, so that the block’s sheave projects just beyond the port underside of the tiller.Screw a second lacing eye about 6″ aft of the first eye, facing fore and aft underneath the tiller.Screw a lacing eye horizontally across the underside of the tiller, about a third to half way back from the forward end.Bring the other end of the 4mm line across the cockpit, under the tiller, and loop it through the other snap hook on the other side, fastening it in place with the guy rope adjuster.Take one end of the 4mm line and attach it to one of the snap hooks with a bowline.Attach a snap hook to each of the lengths of surgical tubing on their looped inboard ends.Take the two lengths of opaque hose and slip one over each of the lengths of doubled-over surgical tubing, with the seized ends of the latter facing outboard (optional but recommended for places that actually see sunshine).When doubled, it should be about 6″ long when relaxed, much more when under tension. Double a length of heavy duty surgical tubing through the rear of one of the stern horn cleats and seize/whip the ends together, so that it is permanently looped in place.Two 6″ lengths of opaque hose to cover and protect the heavy duty surgical tubing from UV damage (optional).One 12″ length of lighter weight 1/8″ surgical tubing.Two 12″ lengths of heavy duty 3/8″ surgical tubing.A heavy duty guy rope adjuster of the kind used on big tents.The idea comes from a number of different sources, including several contributors to the SB forum. It is less prone to line chafe and when bits fail, which they inevitably do over time, it is very easy to mend. The best and most satisfying tiller tamer (but not necessarily the cheapest) is a home-made one, which combines the best functions of all the commercially available versions. This sort of adjustment is useful when trying to set up a balanced course which will allow the tiller to stay untended for some time. It ought also be possible to have the tiller partially tamed, so that its position can be altered against a certain amount of resistance from the tamer. Some sort of shock absorber on one or both sides of the line, to partially absorb the effects of wave action against the boat.A line tautness adjuster to help the tiller tamer compensate for different wind strengths (stronger winds need a tauter line).The better devices have two other elements:

It must be capable of being unclamped quickly. A device attached to the tiller which clamps on that line, thus fixing the required position of the tiller relative to the the gunwales, whether amidships, hard-a-lee (for heaving to) or any other useful position.A line running from one gunwale to the other across the tiller.There are several different makes of tiller tamer commercially available. But on average, it should move in the required direction, more or less. And as the wind increases or drops, the boat will luff up or bear away, respectively. Just don’t expect the boat to hold a completely steady course – as the wind shifts, so will the boat’s heading. Subject to certain conditions, it will also allow you to leave the tiller to make adjustments up forward. With a properly set up tiller tamer and a correctly balanced sail plan, a boat can sail to windward by itself out in the open sea for long enough to have a drink, eat a snack or just admire the scenery. If you are sailing short handed or solo, a tiller tamer of some sort is essential.

Uninstall attachment tamer